The Bibelotphile

Boys In Jewels part 9 - Kanye West

2011-06-27T09:11:00.001-07:00

I had Kanye all to myself last week. Not that he knows it. I was at the Central Saint Martins private view, perusing the graduation portfolios when I looked up and there was the man himself engrossed in the next portfolio along.
In a typically British fashion I pretended I had no idea who he was while telepathically messaging him to look up and start a conversation. He never did and the moment passed. Gah.
Here he is in Paris for the menswear shows, shot by the talented Tommy Ton for style.com. He wasn't this blinged up when we 'met'. If he had been I might have been tempted to pipe up.

Photo: Tommy Ton

Boys In Jewels Part 8 - Thierry Mugler S/S12

2011-06-23T04:33:00.000-07:00

These pix were posted an hour ago on Dazed Digital. When asked by journo David Hellqvist what he felt was the piece that sums up the collection, creative director Nicola Formichetti said: 'The gold medal with the Mugler logo - I think everyone should wear that one!'

Men, you have been told.

Photography by Yang Wang

Art At Annoushka

2011-06-12T03:18:00.000-07:00

Want to know more? See more? Click here and go to Because site's Accessories News section. Check the 'If It Ain't Broke' post.

Excuse Excuses

2011-06-05T12:08:00.000-07:00

I know, my bibelotphile attendance has been woeful recently and I feel genuinely bad. But as all neglectful students must, I have an excuse. Quite simply, there's not enough hours in the day to get everything done at the moment. But it's all for a good reason.

I was lucky enough to be appointed Jewellery Editor at becauselondon.com recently - just learning how to upload posts took a week of intensive training - and have been getting new business, aka Adorn Insight, aka jewellery trend analysis agency extraordinare off the ground. So far, so good.

Jewellery week looms, so a slower pace seems unlikely for the forseeable, but one should never grumble when one's life revolves around such loveliness. A case in point: my latest Lust-Have from Cartier.

In a former life (ie my early 20s) I was a geneticist - if I only I'd paid more attention in 'cloning class' I could brew up a few looky likies in the fridge and I'd be laughing. Or I'd get a lie in, at least...

Boys In Jewels part 7 - Slick Rick

2011-05-26T09:46:00.000-07:00

Gotta love the soft voiced, London born rapper's defiance of the current vogue for minimalist accessorising.

Superfly

2011-05-02T05:22:00.000-07:00

Designed in 1530 BC!!

Wouldn't look out of place on a catwalk today...

From the burial chamber of Egyptian Queen Ahhotep 1.

Walter's Willie

2011-04-26T09:39:00.000-07:00

I've had this image filed as Walter Albini for ages. Now I can't recall if the famed Italian fashion designer was responsible for the jewellery, the display, or both. Whatever, it's certainly a novel approach to merchandising...

Taking The Miki

2011-04-23T08:46:00.000-07:00

I spotted this Yaguruma sash clip on a recent trip to Basel and was struck by two things: the story and the workmanship.

First shown by Mikimoto at the 1937 World Exposition in Paris, the multifunctional piece of jewellery comprises 11 parts which can be assembled to create no fewer than 12 forms of adornment.

Yaguruma went AWOL after the expo and only re-surfaced in 1989 when it was bought by the Mikimoto Pearl Island Co. at an auction in New York. Today it lives in the Pearl Museum on Mikimoto Pearl Island.

Random Treats

2011-04-23T08:26:00.000-07:00

Been meaning to write witty, insightful posts about each of these pix but I'm never gonna get round to that (busy, busy on exciting TBC projects) so here they are in a totally random post. Think of it as inspiration.

Dougal gets a Lasry makeover

Photo by Iwajla Klinker

From the Fred Leighton website

Island Life

2011-03-21T09:57:00.000-07:00

In all my many trips to Ibiza over the years, I never saw anything like this and I'm gutted. But perhaps I was otherwise engaged. Ahem...

Turns out it's traditional for Balearic women to attend local dances sporting 'emprendada', or jewellery that has been passed down through the generations.

The pile-it-all-on approach to wearing jewellery has long been on of my favourite looks although til now I'd limited myself to a handful of rings, a pair of earrings and a couple of bangles for fear of appearing OTT.

Having chanced across this amazing photo I feel inspired to take things to the next level. Living, as I do, in bling-loving South London I predict no-one'll even bat an eyelid.

Photo: Carmen Redonodo, 2003. Taken from Jewellery by Jack Ogden

The Eyes Have It

2011-03-21T09:09:00.000-07:00

I love museum shops. They're always full of odd trinkets that you'd never come across anywhere else: limited edition designer mugs and tea towels; fine art-inspired fridge magnets; erasers and pencils branded with famous quotes. A curious melting pot of highbrow and low.

But my favourite things – without a doubt – are the postcards, of which I have a huge collection. Tempting as it is to post the funny naughty-Japanese-cat-stealing-fish one I bought at the V&A on Friday, I won't. No jewellery, no admission.

But I did come across this fab (if slightly unsettling) image of a British brooch dated c. 1790-1810. Surrounded by juicy pearls is a miniature watercolour painted on ivory with tears made out of diamonds, no less. It immediately reminded me of the 'Eye' brooches and buttons on the Bottega Veneta AW 2011 catwalk.

Just goes to show, what goes around comes around, I guess.

Hanna Martin's New Collection

2011-03-18T03:56:00.000-07:00

Last night saw me rubbing shoulders (and everything else) with London's coolest fash fans as we crammed into Dover Street Market to witness the unveiling of hot-right-now Hannah Martin's new jewellery collection, The Man Who Knows Everything.

Ramping the drama levels to the max Martin had teamed up with German designer/artist, Moritz Waldemayer, to create an installation which saw a bejewelled prism suspended in a black obelisk and surrounded by lazers which emitted noises when plucked. With a film by SHOWstudio playing in the background, and dry ice swirling through the darkness, it was quite the sci-fi experience.

Inspired by Le Comte de Saint Germain – an alchemist who apparently lived for 400 years – and a quote by the French philosopher, Voltaire, who claimed: 'The man who knows everything never dies', the installation also featured an augmented reality machine (magic box?) which let guests 'try on' the expensive jewels.

You'd never think from the crummy image below that I asked a man with his own very fancy camera to capture the moment my cardboard ring became a multi-thousand pound, limited edition masterpiece. Disappointing. You'll just have to imagine it.

Dolly Mixtures

2011-03-15T03:23:00.000-07:00

Pulling heads of dollies is nothing new, but American jeweller, Margaux Lange, has turned it into an artform.

In her bid to examine pop culture's fascination with the iconic Barbie, Lange cuts up second-hand dolls (the fact that they have been pre-owned is important to Lange who is also interested in the notion of re-cycling mass produced items) and mounts their body parts in silver. The result is a range of surreal confections that comprise her Plastic Bodies Series.

And to those who preferred Ken, fret not. His bits'n'bobs get the chop too.

40 Giggles Bracelet
Polka Dot Eye Ring
Bubblegum Pop Necklace
hEarring Blossom
Winged Arm Neckpiece

Myths. And A Legend

2011-03-08T07:10:00.000-08:00

Sophia Vari is a painter and sculptor whose miniature works of art double as fabulously architectural pieces of jewellery. A recently published book, Sophia Vari – Bijoux Sculptés, shows a selection of designs in close ups so tight they become abstracted. Not that that matters, it just means you get to pore over the detail with greater ease. Fashioned from ebony, gold, silver and blond wood, with the occasional rough gem providing vibrant pops of colour, the pieces – perhaps in homage to Vari’s Greek origins – are named after characters from Greek mythology: Aphrodite, Bacchus and Medea.

Pearls Of Wisdom

2011-03-08T07:00:00.000-08:00

I’m not a huge fan of pearls but I do like these. Look closely and see how cleverly jeweller Melanie Georgacopoulos subverts some well worn classics.

From Top: Lace; Nucleus; Facetted; Fabric; Harlequin; Half Cut Necklace; Half Cut Earrings

Le Street, C’est Chic

2011-03-08T06:58:00.000-08:00

London street style rules. Everybody knows that. Click here to read my musings for Adorn London on the capital’s jewellery looks during the recent AW2011 shows.

Photo: Juliet Hutton-Squire

WANT!

2011-03-06T10:34:00.000-08:00

By Lanvin

David & Martin Lift The Lid

2011-03-05T12:07:00.000-08:00

I've been meaning to write this post for about a year now, ever since David & Martin contributed a piece of jewellery to the exhibition I organised at Colette. A long overdue hard drive tidy up session brought them to my attention once more and thank goodness.

Not only did the send a gorgeous thing, which I've posted about before on here but it's so lovely it deserves a second outing. They also sent me details of the inspiration behind the necklace. It's so interesting to have access to the ideas that go into creating a finished piece. Enjoy this...

London Fashion Week AW2011

2011-03-05T11:36:00.000-08:00

A few impressions...

From top to bottom: MF Pepe; Jordan Askill; MF Pepe; Dominic Jones; Dominic Jones; Holly Fulton; Fanny Schiavoni; Holly Fulton

The Genuine Article(s)

2011-03-03T08:19:00.000-08:00

Some trend pages I wrote for Plaza Watch Magazine Iss. 13. Out Now!

And in a bid to show my serious side, a hard-hitting article on diamond mining.

Marie Seguy In Black & White

2011-03-02T10:31:00.000-08:00

Continuing the illustrated jewels theme, these popped into my inbox today. They're from jeweller Marie Seguy.

Chocs Away

2011-02-25T05:50:00.000-08:00

I'm always on the lookout for novel ways to editorialise jewellery. This chocolate box selection card-inspired layout from Italian mag, Flair, tickles me pink.

Bijoux Baubles

2011-02-25T05:30:00.001-08:00

I wrote a little piece about De Grisogono's Bijoux Boule bracelet for Plaza Watch magazine recently. Here it is accompanied by Emma-Lina Ericson's cool illustration.

Giraffe In Jewels. Nipples Too.

2011-02-25T05:14:00.000-08:00

Russian illustrator, Zutto, put a smile on my face today. Even manages to make nipple pasties half acceptable.

How Wallis Wore It

2011-02-14T01:11:00.000-08:00

Following yet another win for movie juggernaut, The King's Speech, at the BAFTAs last night I think a timely jewellery post is in order.

Wallis Simpson, aka the Duchess of Windsor, aka the woman for whom Edward VIII abdicated his throne in 1936 (thus sending the royals into a stiff upper lipped tailspin) appears briefly and not particularly favourably.

Still, whatever the American socialite’s flaws, she knew a thing or two about jewellery of the ultra-fabulous kind. Never mind her Cartier collection – 20 pieces of which were auctioned at Sotheby’s last December for a cool $12.5 million USD – it’s her links to Van Cleef and Arpels that I find more interesting.

During the 1950s, at Simpson’s suggestion, Van Cleef created the now iconic zip necklace. Worn open as a necklace or zipped up into a bracelet, the Zip consists of two gold ribbons bordered with tiny hooks that fit into one another. The Zip opens and closes as the diamond-set tassel moves the slider up and down.

Here's actress Eve Best playing a VCandA bedecked Wallis in the movie.

- Cosmos earrings, white gold and diamonds

- Cadenas watch, yellow gold and pavé diamonds

- Zip Pompom necklace, white gold and diamonds

- Forêt ring, Mystery Set rubies, yellow gold and diamonds – the mystery setting was another Van Cleef creation. Stones are set on fine gold or platinum net so that no claws can be seen on the jewel’s surface. The reduced amount of metal on the finished item means the stones are showcased to maximum effect.

And here’s the new look Zip. This design (one of a 4-strong collection released last month to coincide with Haute Couture Week in Paris) is made from pearls and lapis lazuli with the traditional pom pom tassel closer.

Brokenporcelain

2011-02-12T04:26:00.000-08:00

Andrés Gallardo (or Oso Polar, who commented on my Prada banana earrings post a while back) is the Spanish designer behind Brokenporcelain, a collection of somewhat dark accessories made from, you got it, broken porcelain.

I really like what he does. It would be so easy to miss the mark with this kind of thing but I think he hits it head on.

For more of the same, and an insight into Andrés' inspirations, check out his lovely blog here http://abyandresgallardo.blogspot.com

Boys In Jewels 6

2011-02-12T02:57:00.000-08:00

Eric B. & Rakim work the blink-and-you'll-miss-it gold chain look

Lyrics from the hip hop duo's Follow The Leader track taken from the 1988 album of the same name.
A Furified Freestyle, Lyrics Of Fury
My Third Eye Makes Me Shine Like Jewelry
You're Just A Rent-a-rapper, Your Rhymes Are Minute-maid
I'll Be Here When It Fade To Watch You Flip Like A Renegade

And here's what Chanel went and did with it AW1991

Reasons To Be Cheerful 2

2011-02-10T12:59:00.000-08:00

My latest second hand shop purchase: 'Chrysanthemum' clip on earrings which, from certain angles, look a bit like something out of Alien.

My latest Ebay purchase: a collection of 1950s bug brooches. The gold one has tremblant wings which are set on spring so they vibrate when the wearer moves.

A bangle which I love, but for the life of me I can't recall where I found the image. I think it might be Lanvin.

Myia Bonner for Adorn Insight

2011-02-10T12:49:00.001-08:00

As part of the Adorn Insight launch this week, Juliet and I got together with hot young jeweller, Myia Bonner, to design a promotional ring. Tapping into spring's mood for fluoro hues, as well as a tongue-in-cheek take on the precious gem we came up with these fab perspex rings.

Here's a few other pieces from Myia's current Rough Diamond collection.

Adorn Insight Is Born

2011-02-10T08:04:00.000-08:00

I just got back from a baptism of fire at Birmingham's Spring Fair, where Adorn London's editor, Juliet Hutton-Squire, and I launched an exciting new venture which has had us both working like demons for the last few months.

The sleepless nights, bitten nails and spotty outbreaks have all been worth it though. In two short days we were signed up as Professional Jeweller's official trade media partner, and we came back with more interest and leads than we could ever have hoped for.

To find out more about Adorn Insight, our groundbreaking jewellery trend analysis service, click here to have a read of the article penned by PJ's lovely and very on-it editor, Rachael Taylor.

What's Up, Doc?

2011-02-10T07:55:00.000-08:00

Fans of rabbit pie might enjoy this new take on an a traditional staple. Part of jeweller Aurea Praga's I'm All Ears series, the idea behind this golden bunny ring is as follows:

• write a secret on one of the paper strip that come with the ring
• fold the paper and insert it into the shallow inner space of the ring
• place the ring on your finger
• wear aforementioned secret all day long

You can find Aurea's Etsy shop here.

Watch The Birdie

2011-02-04T07:03:00.000-08:00

Giant white bird pendants are not something you expect to see every day and yet I've come across two today already.

The first (on a very cool lady in Milan) was in a recent post from The Sartorialist's website, the second is taken from the cover of a book called Jewellery by Jack Ogden. I spotted it in the window of a second hand book store at lunchtime and the coincidence was too great. I had to go in and buy it. Turns out the gold and enamel swan lives at the British Museum and dates from 1400.

So there we are. I thought feathered jewellery might be in for ss2011, but ardent fans of the look should consider working the whole bird instead.

Have A Banana

2011-01-28T09:08:00.000-08:00

From Elle Collections SS2011. How to make your own Prada-inspired banana earrings.

Hands Up If You Love This

2011-01-28T08:55:00.000-08:00

Just pilfered these lovely shots from photographer Estelle Hanania's website. The jewellery is by Ligia Dias who I wrote about in a previous post. Clever ladies both.

Wonky Wonders

2011-01-23T03:51:00.000-08:00

Back in the 80s , when clashing was cool, my girlfriends and I thought that wearing mismatched earrings made us the queen bees of the playgound.

Having chanced upon this image of Frida Kahlo working the asymmetrical look in the 30s or 40s, I realise we weren't being as original as we'd hoped.

If these pieces are anything to go by, lopsided ear attire may be making a return to form.

Frida Kahlo
Ana De Costa
Ana De Costa
Betsey Johnson
Diana Olivia Maynard
Hannah Louise Lamb
Toodlebunny

Drawing Inspiration

2011-01-23T02:57:00.000-08:00

Love the way Los Angeles-based Anita Ko has styled the jewels on her website. Humorous and fresh.

Cities Of Gold

2011-01-12T09:13:00.000-08:00

Fancy a spot of globetrotting, but lacking the funds to do so? Look no further than Philippe Tournaire’s Bijoux Architecture. From the Eiffel Tower and Big Ben, to a Floridian penthouse and a Chinese pagoda, Tournaire's architectural miniatures (which continue a tradition that dates back to the 6th Centruy AD) mean you can have the world at your fingertips.

Lina Baretti

2011-01-12T06:54:00.000-08:00

This month's issue of The World Of Interiors has a lovely feature on Lina Baretti, the Corsican couture jewller who - in her day - was feted by the likes of Balenciaga, Schiaparelli and Chanel.

Her use of lo-fi materials such as cork, metal, straw, velvet ribbon and tortoiseshell simply adds to the charm of her finished pieces. Just goes to show, you can look a million dollars without spending it.

Reasons To Be Cheerful

2011-01-07T06:21:00.000-08:00

Lovely things put a smile on my face. Here's three images that have had that effect today.

This photo, advertising Boucheron's latest pieces, dropped into my inbox first thing. Decadent, indulgent, delicious. Especially noteworthy is the 'cupcake' ring on the model's forefinger.

Then the ultra-talented Alice Cicolini – author, jeweller, lecturer, curator – emailed me to say she thought I'd like this crown. She was so right.

Dating from the 1st Century AD, it's one of the exhibits in Afghanistan: Crossroads of the Ancient World, an exhibition which arrives at the British Museum on March 3rd.

It's thought to have belonged to a nomadic princess and is constructed from 12 separate pieces so that it could be folded away and transported easily. As Alice put it - a great example of early flat-packing.

And here's a beautiful piece by Alice herself. The Lotus Pendant features a faceted ruby and 23.5ct yellow gold beads, and the pendant itself is decorated with finely carved recycled ebony and meenakari enamelling - a technique known in Europe as champlevé enamelling... *sigh*...

Boucheron's Blingin' Bouquet

2011-01-04T07:56:00.000-08:00

This diamond-and-sapphire studded, Baccarat crystal perfume bottle was designed as a very limited edition version of the classic scent, Boucheron Femme. At £15,000 a bottle, the price per dab's probably a little excessive. If you think of it as a supersized sized ring, however, it starts to make sense.

Dior Does Coral

2011-01-04T05:48:00.000-08:00

I believe coral's my birthstone so (major hint) here's 3 little trinkets from Dior Joaillerie which will make perfect gifts for my big day this year...

Bedazzled by Bulgari

2010-12-29T10:10:00.000-08:00

Currently showing at Paris' Grand Palais, 125 years Of Italian Magnificence charts the evolution of Italian high jewellery brand, Bulgari. What they do / did with colour is masterful. Feast your eyes...

Pixel Juicy

2010-12-29T08:13:00.000-08:00

Starting with cubes and working her way through cell structures, mathematical patterns and Lego, London-based, RCA-trained Jo Hayes Ward designs her gorgeous geometric jewels on a computer. Proof if any was needed that it really is hip to be square.

Mean Machines

2010-12-20T10:45:00.000-08:00

Come on now, who doesn't need a diamond-encrusted robot in their life. These mini automata are by Queelin.

Give(enchy) Generously

2010-12-20T10:11:00.000-08:00

Never mind baubles for the tree. What about baubles for me...?

Crowning Glory

2010-12-20T09:43:00.000-08:00

I came across product designer Rentaro Nishimura's work at the 100% Design event in London recently.

In addition to producing homewares, Rentaro designed this Crown ring inspired by Alice In Wonderland's Queen Of Hearts.

With re-cyclability in mind, it comes as a flat-pack acrylic sheet, requires no glue or other materials to assemble and the off-cuts can act as a stand for the ring and a little gift card.

Dalila Barkache

2010-12-09T03:58:00.000-08:00

It's official. I'm in love.

Dalila Barkache – or, more accurately, her jewelley – is my new No.1 crush.

I was lucky enough to meet Dalila last night and in between dancing to 80s floorfillers and demolishing a tableful of delicious Moroccan food she let me get my hands on the beautiful pieces shown below.

Not only do they work on a visual level, they have that all important - oft overlooked – tactile appeal: satisfyingly weighty, in some cases mobile (2nnd & 3rd images from the bottom), and multi-textured. They push certain emotional buttons too. Who won't enjoy a secret smile knowing that their apparently simple gold band is lined with hidden diamonds? Other materials include gold, oxidised silver and rock crystal which Dalila has cut according to her own rigorous specifications.

Bit of background: Dalila has Moroccan roots and grew up in the Parisian suburbs. Having travelled extensively through Asia and the Middle East she fell in love with Beirut and in December 2006 she inaugurated the first Commes des Garçons guerilla store in the Lebanese capital.

Boys In Jewels Part 5 - Göran Kling

2010-12-09T02:44:00.000-08:00

Gotta love Göran Kling’s work. Big, bold and bizarre.

Here's some pieces from Göran's Jewellery Represent Collection.

And here's Dizzee Rascal’s sporting some Kling bling in the video for the aptly named Bonkers.

Photos: Anders Linden

DIED

2010-12-08T07:41:00.000-08:00

If I were to describe my perfect job it’d go something like this: travel the world, meet interesting people, have adventures, be creative, make a living doing it all.
Having just come across Diederik Verbakel (one half of design duo *DIED*) it looks like he’s beaten me to the punch.

Globetrotting designers Diederik and partner, Marieke Holthuis, make a point of researching artisan traditions around the world then feed their findings into a recently launched jewellery and fashion line. Here’s what Netherlands-based Diederik had to say about his enviable lifestyle:

How do you find the artisans you work with, and what interesting techniques did you encounter?
We asked around in different shops where we could find craftspeople, which lead to a fun search that took us to different little factories. We found out how to cast and make different elements, and what kind of processes you can use on the jewellery pieces. Partly oxidizing the jewellery was something that was fun to elaborate on. Also gold plating, which you can do in various ways. We would think about a technique and what to do with it to make it new...

Are certain styles associated with specific countries?
We discovered along the way that Brazil is famous for it's semi-precious stones, Indonesia for its hand-crafted jewellery, India for the mix of metals. There is still a lot to discover and to play around with. They all have their speciality...and all is interesting.

Are your collections created in situ, or when you return to the Netherlands?
We do make some sketches beforehand but mainly we work on the spot. That way the artisans understand better what kind of things we like and we have a closer relationship. This leads sometimes to hilarious situations where the men we work with are wearing our necklaces as test/show models.....fun indeed...

How many jewellery collections have you created as *DIED*?
So far we have one complete collection, Black As Night, which stores can now order. We made another two collections of unique pieces (in Brazil and Argentina), which we called ‘travel-collections’. These are still available to two stores: One in Amsterdam and one in Osaka, Japan.

Your blog is full of photos bursting with exuberant colours from your travels yet your work has a very pared down palette. Why is that?
We decided on a very strong and coherent theme for our first collection. And the dark night of all of these countries was something that we saw particularly strong as a concept. That does not mean we might explore colour theme next season....

What inspired the Black As Night collection?
It’s based on the idea of black in all its forms. Oxidized black silver, black crystal glass and black dip-dyed clothing and scarves. The collection consists of 26 pieces of jewellery and 7 dresses and 7 scarves.

Which materials do you favour?
Sterling silver and partly gold plated and semi-precious gemstones...

Where’s next on your travels?
Japan! We will present the Black As Night collection in Tokyo during the fair in February.

Men and jewellery. Discuss…
I love to wear jewellery and I'm a man, but it's always just necklaces. My fingers are too fine so I look like a woman with wearing rings.
But, within 3 years we will also be launching a male line since all our male friends are buying our pieces already.

Black As Night

Argentum Di Argentina

Charms Do Brazil

Photos: Joy Datta

Knots Landing

2010-12-07T06:50:00.000-08:00

One’s masculine and industrial, the other’s feminine and inspired by friendship bracelets. And yet, and yet… wouldn’t these make cute his ‘n’ hers Christmas pressies?

The necklace – made from handwoven cotton and oxidized brass plated chain – is by American blogger, graphic designer and jeweller, Kate Miss.

The U-cuff rope bracelet from Miansai (brainchild of the not ugly Michael Saiger) is made from nylon cord with a brass fastening for extra grrrr factor.

Tag, You're It!

2010-12-07T06:47:00.001-08:00

Christmas shopping’s a struggle of the best of times, but when (as happened to me at the weekend) a careless shop assistant forgets to remove a security tag from your purchases, and when said tag both evades manual detection and sets off alarms wherever you go, whatever festive cheer you started off with soon evaporates.

Know what would have put a smile on my face? If I’d got home to find this had accidentally slipped into my bag.

Made from 18k gold-plated sterling silver and white diamonds SECURITY!™ is a tongue-in-cheek take on the classic shoplifter deterrent. Designed by artist Justin Gignac and made by jeweller Max Steiner the pin costs $700, or $550 if you go diamond-free. Or totally free if it happens to fall into your pocket…

Fake It Til You Make It

2010-12-03T03:20:00.001-08:00

Manchester-based jeweller Jade Mellor is the lady behind these faceted rings. Each piece is made from hand cast resin and the specked effect on the white pieces is achieved by the inclusion of granite particles.

Paper Diamonds

2010-12-03T03:14:00.001-08:00

From www.bitsofbob.com. Cute.

Margiela Rocks

2010-11-30T03:49:00.001-08:00

Maison Martin Margiela ss 2009. The last show with the reclusive designer at the helm. Always makes me smile...

Slice Of Life

2010-11-18T13:28:00.000-08:00

Agate slices are everywhere. Generally I find them a bit too 70s hippy for my liking but the Cavalli brooch, and Susie Bubbble's wraparound number (below) put a fresh new spin on an old staple.

Just Cavalli ss2011

Top Shop ss2011 (sneak preview)

Susie Bubble wearing a Brook and Lynn 'Surround' necklace at the Paris shows in October.

Things That Make Me Happy

2010-11-16T13:38:00.000-08:00

Some heirlooms...

...and some future heirlooms.

Blink And You'll Miss It

2010-11-16T12:34:00.000-08:00

I came across these diamond+magnifying glass rings by Edouard Lamaraud the other day. Not new (he designed them in 2004), but such a great idea, especially for cash-strapped Romeos (and tightwads) everywhere.

A Seal Of Approval

2010-11-16T12:23:00.001-08:00

Dutchman Ten Noten has been many things in his professional lifetime: bricklayer, psychiatric nurse, artist, designer, jeweller.

Based in Amsterdam, Noten creates life sized compositions which are then translated into miniature versions and cast in gold, alternatively he casts unexpected objects in acrylic. Either way, much of it ends up as jewellery, albeit of an unconventional nature.

Previous projects have included sealing a gecko inside a block of acrylic (a mouse wearing a pearl necklace got the same treatment), and sawing a Mercedes Benz car into brooches. His 2009 magnum opus, Haunted by 36 Women, was a jewellery collection inspired by sculptures Noten created which were in turn inspired by 36 different female 'types' – career woman, femme fatale, fashionista, etc…

This collaboration with jeweller Joost Lyppens saw Noten cast diamonds in acrylic. Funny.

A Winning Ensemble

2010-11-16T11:09:00.000-08:00

Here's the Chanel haute couture-clad actress Carey Mulligan, with Karl, at the seventh annual CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund event in New York earlier this week. Not sure if that's a necklace, or a rather elaborate way of holding the jacket in place – I like to think the latter. Also heartening to know that jewellery designer, Eddie Borgo, was one of the two runners up. Not least because I name-checked him on the Adorn London blog last week.

Big In Japan - Part 2

2010-11-15T09:18:00.000-08:00

My book has hit the headlines in Japan, notably in the December issue of Ginza magazine. Even better, my lovely friend Coco's illustration takes pride of place. Thanks to Yoshiko at H.P. France for so assiduously keeping me updated. I'm in love with the pack-it-all-in bubble gum graphics, and charmed by the fact that someone went to the trouble of selecting a spread that compliments the earrings which belong to a completely different story.

Sticky Moments

2010-11-11T10:09:00.000-08:00

These sticking plasters by American designer Cynthia Rowley almost make having an accident worthwhile.

Big In Japan

2010-11-08T09:04:00.000-08:00

A few months ago I received a lovely email from Yoshiko at H.P. France – one of Japan's leading lifestyle retailers. Yoshiko had spotted my book and been inspired to curate an exhibition called Jewellery Links People To People.

Based at the H.P.France Bijoux store in Marunouchi, Tokyo, the exhibition will run throughout November. The idea behind the show is to 'convey the meaning and the power of jewellery and jewellery creation that can link people to people all over the world, like a piece of jewellery links buyers with their shop staff, who link with their shop customers, who link with their loved ones........and so on'.

I feel very proud, and very flattered.

Boys In Jewels - part 4

2010-11-08T08:55:00.000-08:00

Men and jewellery: to wear, or not to wear. That is the question posed by Adorn this week. For what it's worth, my opinions can be found here.

The cufflinks shown are by Giles & Brother - brainchild of New york jeweller, Philip Crangi, and his sister. They're the piece I'd like my imaginary boyfriend to wear.

Centaur Perks

2010-10-25T07:56:00.000-07:00

Talk about naive. I just googled the words 'Pierre Hardy Hermès' to find out how long I'd have to save / hard I'd have to work in order to treat myself to a ring from this 14-piece jewellery collection designed by the prolific French designer for Hermès.

Inspired by a horse's hoof (in keeping with the brand's equestrian roots) the Centaur collection's cheapest piece comes in at $23,675. Top whack – for those who are interested – is $880,000. On the plus side each item does come in a sumptuous custom-made alligator box.

Ongwat

2010-10-23T09:44:00.000-07:00

With an educational background that spans Communication Arts (Queensland Uni, Australia), Interior Design (New York) and Exhibition Design (also NYC, from the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology) it goes without saying that Paranee Ongwat has an eye for design.

The simple lines and geometric shapes that characterise her tightly edited jewellery collections make Ongwat's work a versatile option for those seeking a piece that's unusual without being overpowering.

The name Ongwat means longevity - something that should be in the bag if the globetrotting Paranee keeps on doing what she does best.

Wing cuff
Scaffold
Tiger's Eye ring
Agate and gold-plated brass bracelet
Brass Gladiator cuff
3-hinged square rings
Brass Knight ring
Gunmetal-plated brass ring

So good Karl did it too...

2010-10-18T09:32:00.000-07:00

Whilst I was at The Box trade fair in Paris recently, I chanced upon a lovely lady called Francesca who does the PR for Italian jewellery brand, Ioselliani.

We got chatting about all sorts: good looking designers who get together (Iosseliani was founded by the not ugly couple, Paolo Giacomelli and Roberta Paolucci), collaborations with other brands (in a previous life Giacomelli worked with Missoni, Fiorucci and Kenzo) and, especially, the use of interesting techniques as seen on these oxidised metal pieces.

By the looks of Chanel's ss2011 catwalk, Karl's liking it too...

Photos: catwalking.com

To Dior For

2010-10-18T09:08:00.000-07:00

Dior’s new aw2010 collection just dropped into my inbox. It's made up of 6 lines: Diorose, Devore Dior, My Dior, Diorchetser, Mise en Dior, Chri Chri.

In no particular order, here's what's going on the Christmas wishlist.

Chri Chri charm necklace, £500
Mise En Dior necklace, £1850
Mise En Dior ring, £170
My Dior bangle, £210
Dior Chester bracelet, £650
Devore Dior cuff bracelet, £650

Fabulous Fabergé

2010-10-12T08:52:00.000-07:00

In celebration of the re-entry – after almost 100 years – of Fabergé into the world of fine jewellery, here's a piece I wrote which has just been published in Plaza Watch magazine.

The collection is called Les Fabuleuses is divided into three lines: Les Fleurs (created in homage to the extravagant flower balls that epitomised grand living under the last Russian Tsar), Les Fables (inspired by Russian myths and legends) and Les Fauves, which broadly references the animals of which founder Peter Carl Fabergé was so fond.

Underpinning the collection is the notion of fauvism – a central tenet of art theory which held sway during Russia’s hugely influential Silver Age. At its heart lay the notion that colour acts as an emotional trigger and its power is able to affect the soul. Artists influenced by Fauvism included stage and costume designer, Leon Bakst, founder of the Ballets Russes, Sergei Diaghilev, and painters Marc Chagall and Vassily Kandinsky.

Red = courage, ritual and passion
Purple = mystery and royalty
Blue = truth and peace
Pink = love and beauty
Yellow = wisdom
Green = nature
Grey = maturity and security

Here's a few pieces from the ever-changing Les Fabuleuses collection. Each confection is a one-off and can take hundreds of hours to create. For those who like to make a statement...

Sea Tzar Brooch
Pansy Brooch
Red Jasper Scarab
Black Sea Serpent Ring
Nomade Bracelet
Giant Magnolia Ring
Savoyarde Verte Ring
Charmeuse Bangle

All About Yves

2010-10-08T03:34:00.000-07:00

Juliet at Adorn London asked four bibelotphiles to pick their favourite piece of jewellery from the ss2011 catwalks. I got Paris and I chose Yves Saint Laurent. Click here to read all four pieces.

ALL ABOUT YVES

I have to admit to a serious weakness for Yves Saint Laurent. From the life story of Yves himself – so remarkable you couldn’t make it up – to the brand’s many iconoclastic milestones, to the clothes themselves: the last word in elegance with a twist.
So perhaps I’m biased in my hankering for this piece, but if there’s one bit of jewellery going on my summer wardrobe wishlist next year, this is it.
To my mind, this necklace embodies something of the spirit of the house whose influences have been felt across so many of the S/S2011 catwalks. Unsurprising, perhaps, given the phenomenal success of the recently ended YSL retrospective at Paris’ Petit Palais.

This necklace is at once on trend (the warrior look is bubbling under for S/S 2011) and timeless, ultra-chic and satisfyingly left field. The proportions are perfect – just outsized enough to lift it from comfort zone to cool club. There is something of the 60s in its off-kilter discs; a hint of ancient treasure in those matte, textured metal surfaces. The rippled silhouette of the vertical slices echoes the ruffles that snake across the collection’s more frivolous garments.

According to style.com, YSL’s creative director, Stefano Pilati, talked after the show of his interest in tribalism, and how ‘fashion is a way for women to identify themselves, just as members of a tribe do’. If this beauty’s anything to go by, that’s one tribe I’d very much like to join.

Maripol & Marc

2010-10-05T05:28:00.000-07:00

Back in early 80s New York stylist, designer and all-round scenester, Maripol, made name for herself as the woman responsible for creating Madonna's iconic Like A Virgin look. More specifically, hers were the fash-trash rubber bracelets favoured by the badass Material Girl - pictured here with Maripol.

In 1978, Maripol's first rubber collection doubled as the debut accessory & jewellery line for Fiorucci. More recently she collaborated with Marc Jacobs on a limited edition collection of 13 jewellery pieces including flouro lucite bangles, metallic studded cuffs and multi-coloured rubber earrings.

In homage to Maripol's habit of shooting Polaroids to document her famous friends (Jean-Michel Basquiat, Debbie Harry, Bianca Jagger, Andy Warhol, Keith Haring and Grace Jones to name a few) the packaging of her new line sports a signed snap featuring the trinket stashed inside the silver bubble wrap pocket. Here's my purchase from the the Marc by Marc Jacobs store in Paris. Like all the best buys, this one's staying sealed and pristine til it's a proper collector's item.

Photos 2 & 3 courtesy http://famespy.com

Paris Is Burning. So Are My Feet.

2010-10-04T15:24:00.000-07:00

I spent the weekend in Gay Paree walking the length and breadth of the city checking out the ss2011 jewellery collections at the many, many, MANY trade fairs and showrooms dotted round the beautiful French capital. Exhausting but enlightening, it was well worth the chiropodist bills I think I'm about to run up. More detail to follow as I'm able to piece it together, but for now here's a few atmos pix...

The Anne Demeulemeester showroom complete with miniature city window display. Check out the beads inside the rings.

The exhibits at Colette, including Swarovski pieces by Karl Lagerfeld (bangles etc) and Fendi (birdie bag), a necklace-like illustration by Basement Crew and a fairylight-embellished table and chair by someone whose name I forgot to note.

A real live model modelling socialite and accessory designer Yazbukey's ss2011 collection at the Colette Hermes collaboration launch party. Yaz herself was the epitome of laissez faire cool in a granny hairnet (to prevent her hair frizzing in the rain) and juicy fuchsia pink shorts.

The jewellery displays at concept store, Merci

The humble chub key gets a makeover at the Surface To Air party.

Forget Me Not

2010-10-04T14:56:00.000-07:00

Coco is a much in-demand illustrator and the brains behind Forget Me Not - a line of gorgeous silk accessories that are rapidly coming to the attention of the glossiest of glossy magazine editors. She's also the only person to know when you want to get into otherwise out-of-bounds fashion week parties. Stick with Coco and it's straight to the front of the queue, even if you do have to pretend to be Raf Simons' cousin for the night...

These pix are from her stand at Premier Classe trade show in Paris: ss2011

And a selection of giant scarves from the current collection

Charmed, I'm Sure

2010-10-04T14:34:00.000-07:00

If the Paris showrooms and accessory trade fairs were anything to go by last week, charms and found objects are going to be BIG news for ss2011. One lady who has taken the form and run with it is Chantal Manoukian, aka La Tonkinoise a Paris. Nice lady. Nice jewels. Here's a few from the current collection...

Flower Power

2010-09-29T15:31:00.000-07:00

I thought Carrie Bradshaw had killed it for good but it looks like the floral corsage (and variations therof) is back with a vengeance for ss2011. Pretty.

Rochas
Moschino Cheap & Chic
Maurizio Pecoraro
Clements Ribeiro
Iceberg
Jason Wu
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs
Twenty8 Twelve
Mary Katrantzou

Photos: style.com

Breast Is Best

2010-09-29T15:01:00.000-07:00

There's a theory in fashion that during times of global uncertainty and economic strife, tailoring become popular. Something to do with the way structured clothes induce a sense of cosseting, security and a control. With so many variations on the breastplate-style necklace coming down the catwalks, is ss2011's jewellery reflecting a similar desire for protection?

Duro Olowu
Emporio Armani
Holly Fulton
Jeremy Laing
Lela Rose
Malandrino
Marni
Mary Katrantzou
Jenni Kayne

In some cases designers have gone a step further, creating garments that incorporate jewellery-inspired breastplates directly into the bodice.

Todd Lynn
L.A.M.B.
Gucci

All photos: style.com

Sugar Rush

2010-09-22T09:12:00.000-07:00

SS2011's sweet enough to bring on a diabetic attack...

Lela Rose
Marc By Marc Jacobs (2&3)
L.A.M.B
House Of Holland
Fashion Fringe
Cynthia Rowley
Altuzarra (8&9)

Photos: style.com

Stud U Like

2010-09-22T08:56:00.000-07:00

Burberry’s Christopher Bailey has gone back to the company’s brimming archives once again for ss2011, this time to the outfits Thomas Burberry designed for England's first motorbike riders in the early 1900s. The Heritage Biker collection certainly got our engines revving.

Photos: www.style.com

Shrink-tastic!

2010-09-06T09:14:00.000-07:00

Talk about a blast from the past! When my brother and I were little we spent many a thrilling hour transforming crisp packets into shrinkydinks much like those sported by these models in the latest edition of Pop.

The formula is simple: buy crisps, eat crisps, place empty crisp packet in hot oven, ponder the miracle that is a crisp packet shrinking to a fraction of its size, allow now Liliputian crisp packet to cool and… and… not much else really.

Youngsters today would probably find such forms of entertainment dull, but back in the early 80s – especially if you were a kid from the countryside – this was the savoury snack-based equivalent of alchemy. Fun, fun, fun. Probably highly toxic. But oh, such fun.

Photo: Jamie Morgan
Styling: Tamara Rothstein
From POP AW2010

Buried Treasure

2010-08-23T07:46:00.000-07:00

Some of the oldest evidence of gold being used as ornamentation was discovered in 1972 at the Varna Necropolis in Bulgaria. Over 3000 gold artifacts were found in the graves which date back to 4600-4200 BC.

The find showed that as well as having sophisticated religious beliefs about the afterlife, a hierarchal status based on differences to do with male superiority was already firmly in place •Sigh•

What is thought to be an elite male was found buried with a huge hoard of gold trinkets including, appropriately enough, a gold penis sheath.

These cute bull-shaped gold platelets were thought to venerate virility and warfare.

Good Enough To Eat

2010-08-19T03:08:00.001-07:00

Sites For Sore Eyes

2010-08-18T14:10:00.000-07:00

Fine jewellery websites can take themselves a bit seriously sometimes so it's refreshing to come across a couple that take a more lighthearted approach to presenting their wares. The animations on Solange Azagury-Partridge's site (including the tumbling gems, above) and the irreverent names she gives her often tongue-in-cheek jewellery make for good browsing.

To see how Dior creative director, Victoire de Castellane, constructs on of her French fancies check out the little film under Milly Carnivora. I love the fact that the jewellery looks like it could have come out of a Christmas cracker but costs an average year's salary.

And should my future husband happen to chance upon this, if he presents me with the 'Oui' ring - my answer would be a definite 'yes'.

Yunus and Elizabeth

2010-08-18T13:49:00.000-07:00

Artist Yunus Ascott and sculptor Eliza Higginbottom met in 2007 whilst casting precious metals in one of the last surviving specialist foundries in London.

it was a meeting of minds that led to their launch of their eponymous brand, the latest collection of which is displayed here.

Influenced by 'fairytales and the surreal, metamorphosis and hybrids' they create 'miniature sculptures to be worn'. Each piece is entirely handmade at the same foundry where the pair met back in the day.

Chanel - Just Because...

2010-08-18T13:42:00.000-07:00

... I like it.

Oranges & Lemons

2010-08-16T09:35:00.001-07:00

My latest contribution to Adorn London. Suck it and see...
http://www.adorn-london.com/features/citrus-hues/

Good Mourning

2010-08-15T04:34:00.000-07:00

A much postponed clearout this weekend unearthed a bag full of rag-tag pieces of jet jewellery which I inherited from a long-gone relative. The dark skies and torrential rain that have beset this August weekend, together with the discovery of these funereal trinkets, have put me in the mood for something a little... dark.

Although worn in England since the Middle Ages, mourning jewellery became popular in the 15th and 16th century when hair of the deceased, skulls (not of the deceased), coffins and urns all featured in pieces made predominantly from gold and enamel. Known as memento mori, these articles were designed to remind the wearer of their own mortality.

The band on this skull ring reads 'Eliz Easton ob 7 Oct 1740 AE 16'. The use of white enamel signified the deceased was a virgin.

Bad hair day: Jet brooch embelished with the deceased's locks

Jet jewellery became popular during the Victorian era, notably after the death of Queen Victoria's beloved husband, Albert, in 1861. Victoria went into mourning for the rest of her days (a not inconsiderable number, given that she died in 1901), her subjects assumed black garb and jet became the ornament of choice.

Victorian jet and ivory cameo

Made from fossilized wood and mined in Whitby, North Yorkshire, jet had been used since the Bronze Age to make beads and other jewellery.

Cross-shaped jet brooch, decorated with a heart and anchor, 1850-1900

Perhaps un-coincidentally, when writing his novel, Dracula, Bram Stoker chose Whitby as the vampire Count's bleak dropping off point when his ship, The Demeter, is grounded in a storm. Spooky.

Reputation Wreckers

2010-08-08T12:14:00.000-07:00

'Artistic jewellery wrecks a woman's reputation' from Gigi, by the French author, Colette

A dash of notoriety (and some in-your-face jewellery) never hurt this lot...

Sarah Bernhardt

Josephine Baker

Iris Apfel

Nancy Cunard

La Dama De Elche

2010-08-08T11:00:00.000-07:00

A while back, my mum gave me a postcard featuring this beautiful lady – she’s enchanted me ever since. Known as La Dama de Elche, this stone bust is a fabulous example of Iberian sculpture which dates from the 4th century B.C.

Her jewellery is typically Iberian. The two large wheels (or rodetes) covering her ears hang from chains tied to a leather band circling her head and were probably made from metal. Her three necklaces were made from small filigree beads and crowns, and are thought to be reproductions of even earlier jewellery which originated in Ionia (an area in present-day Turkey) around 600 B.C.

The bust was discovered in 1897 at L'Alcúdia, an archaeological site south of Elche near Valencia in Spain. Having spent time at the Louvre in Paris (where she was hidden for safekeeping during WWII) and The Prado in Madrid (when she was re-patriated following negotiations with dictator Franco’s government) she can now be found In Spain’s National Archaeological Museum. Her other claim to fame is that she appeared on a 1948 Spanish one-peseta banknote.

Although it has been suggested that she’s a forgery, pigments found on the Dama are consistent with ancient materials. Here’s what she might originally have looked like two-and-a-half thousand years ago.

Home Sweet Home

2010-08-01T12:49:00.001-07:00

Photos: Douglas Friedman

I have a serious dose of life envy after reading this story on the Nowness website last week. Mother and daughter Judy and Jane Aldridge live a life of 24/7 fabulousness in this just-the-right-side-of-kitsch Dallas pad.

Check out Judy's Atlantis Home blog for some truly fine vintage jewellery finds, a small selection of which are pictured below. If shoes are your thing, be sure to visit 18-year-old Jane's Sea of Shoes.

Photos: Judy Aldridge

Memory Lane

2010-08-01T11:29:00.000-07:00

Adorn London ran a sweet, and timely, piece on holiday jewellery last week. The website's editor, Juliet, asked various contributors to wax lyrical about the pieces they packed for their hols, or – in my case – my brother's wedding in San Sebastian, Spain. Click here to read the full story.

Here's what I wrote:
"I’m taking five bone bangles from India, a pair of marcasite drop earrings from my Spanish great grandma, my great aunty’s gold wedding ring (worn on my left forefinger), a gold and black ‘hip hop’ chain necklace by Florian and my trusty gold hoop earrings."

This is the best I could manage on photos:

To elaborate: the earrings belonged to great grandma, then grandma, then mum and now me. My brother was married in the church in the grounds of the school that my great grandma, grandma and mum all attended. It's on a hill overlooking the beautiful city of San Sebastian in the Basque country. The earrings are silver metal embellished with marcasite - they look a bit like lace – and it meant a lot to me to wear them on such a special day.

From the sublime to the ridiculous... I bought these bangles in various Delhi markets when I went to visit my friend Chrissy in India a few years back. I love them because not only do they look fab and elicit lots of compliments, they did well to make it back to the UK in one piece. Kind-hearted Chrissy had adopted two street dogs and these bangles were the only souvenirs of my month-long trip to escape the strays' obsession with swallowing everything in sight.

My proudest purchase had been some gorgeous North Indian beaded necklaces until they disappeared into thin air one day. I found the the beads – minus the string, and bleached by the sun – up on the roof a week later after. How they got there, and the intestinal odyssey they underwent, needs no further elaboration here.

A Fine Engagement

2010-06-25T08:27:00.000-07:00

Having recently returned from the 3-day hen do of my soon-to-be sister-in-law the time seems right for a post on engagement rings. As luck would have it, the launch last week of Tiffany’s Engagement Ring Finder iPhone app (more below) makes the story newsworthy too. What follows is by no means a full chronology, but a few fun facts nevertheless.

• The notion of a ring as a marital symbol can be traced back to North Africa of 5,000 years ago and rings made of reeds and grass rings are depicted in images of that time. The circular Egyptian hieroglyph stood for eternity whilst the hole in the middle represented a gateway through which the wearer entered into a new partnership.

•In ancient Rome and Greece rings were placed on the fourth finger of the left hand because it contained the vena amoris, or vein of love, which reputedly led straight to the heart.

•When Archduke Maximillian of Austria used a diamond ring to tie the knot with Mary of Burgundy in 1477 he sparked off a craze that lasts to this day.

•During the 16th century the practise of engraving simple sentimental statements such as ‘I love you’ on rings became popular. These love tokens were known as poesy rings. This one dates back to the Renaissance.

•At around the same time gimmel rings (made of 2 or 3 hoops or links that fit together to form one complete ring) were often used as betrothal rings in Europe. The engaged couple would wear one hoop each and rejoin them to use as a wedding ring. Martin Luther popped the question to Catherine Bora in 1525 with a gimmel ring that bore the legend: ‘Whom God has joined together, let no man put asunder’.

Enameled gold and diamond gimmel ring c.1600

•Prior to the end of the 19th century it wasn’t uncommon for the lucky bride-to-be to receive a sewing thimble.

•De Beers have a lot to answer for. In a bid to boost sales they spread the rumour that a man should blow three months' wages on an engagement ring, and in 1947 they came up with the oft-quoted slogan 'A diamond is forever'.

•In addition to being valuable, the diamond has been attributed with a host of desirable properties including the ability to ensure loyalty and fidelity. The name has its roots in the Greek word Adamas, meaning invincible – which puts a whole new spin on my surname!

•Fast forward to 2010 and Tiffany & Co.’s Engagement Ring Finder is a first-of-its-kind iPhone app that includes a Ring Sizer facility, access to a team of expert consultants, and a range of styles that may be viewed with diamonds of six different carat sizes.

•The Tiffany setting – a claw that holds a gemstone to a plain band ring – is the most common setting for a diamond solitaire.

Louis V Takes A Trip

2010-06-17T08:36:00.000-07:00

I can't decide whether I love this Louis Vuitton necklace, or hate it. It's doing something to me though...

Designed by Lorenz Bäumer (who's also designed for Chanel and Baccarat) it's one of six one-off necklaces which form the centrepieces of a collection of parures called L’Âme du Voyage aka The Soul of the Journey (or somesuch).

Inspired by LV's travel heritage these lace-like trinkets are packed with diamonds, rubies, pink sapphires and garnets to name a few. Like it or not (and the craftsmanship is undeniable) at around $2.5 million US this necklace this is one luxury round-the-world trip.

3 Days Later...

In the wake of the comment and link below it's worth noting that in Nov 2008 LV patented 2 diamond cuts – the rounded fleur quatrefoil and the pointed fleur – both of which can be seen in this collection.

Philippe Sajet

2010-06-16T08:59:00.001-07:00

You wait forever for some horn jewellery to come along and then a whole bunch turns up at the same time. Hot on the heels of yesterday's post about Florian's new men's collection comes this ring by Dutch jeweller/artist Philippe Sajet. I can't find a lot about Sajet online (except a Facebook account which I've just messaged) but going on this, I think we should be friends.

Ring made from water buffalo horn and gold, 2003

More to come as my online stalking bears fruits...

Time Flies

2010-06-16T07:19:00.000-07:00

I just spotted these Timeless Watches by Rogan on the Coolhunting website.
Created with sustainability in mind they're assembled from old watch parts so that each one is, in effect, unique. They come in matte black and gold, and cost $110US each.

Seeing them brought to mind a couple of other bits of watch-jewellery I've encountered along the way. Gia Bahm at Unearthen (who I interviewed recently for Adorn London) covers antique watch faces with pyramid crystals and when I asked her why they appealed to her, she told me: "I'm attracted to vintage watches for the same reasons I like each crystal - it's a one-of-a-kind piece. It's special to come upon each watch and appreciate it for its own unique characteristics."

Natalia Brilli, who creates the most amazing leather-encased works of art – including a lap top and a full drum kit - made this Nolex for AW07. I think she re-issues it from time to time and one of these days I'm gonna buy me one.

Husam el Odeh's another jeweller who specialises in re-contextualising apparently redundant objects. From antique salt spoons and decanter stoppers to pencils and belt buckles he turns trash into treasure and in 2007 he put his own spin on a stash of vintage gold watches.

The appeal of objects such as these is difficult to pin down, but the fact that disparate designers explore it again and again suggests it works on a level other than the purely aesthetic. Is it about holding on to time, running out of time or simply sticking two fingers up at time? Who knows... For me these timepieces that no longer function in the sense for which they were intended work on a couple of levels. The visual puns tickle me, but the fact they've stopped (or don't even exist) makes me ever so slightly sad. Maybe that's the point.

Boucheron - So Sweet

2010-06-16T05:33:00.000-07:00

Boucheron has extended its Tentation Macaron line with a collection of mini versions. The green one brings to mind one of my less successful Parisian dining experiences which involved a plate of vivid green macaroons, a gallon or two of very cheap red wine and an embarrassingly premature conclusion to the meal. On balance, these are definitely the tastier option.

White gold and tsavorites

Yellow gold and orange sapphires

Boys In Jewels Part 3 - Florian

2010-06-15T09:32:00.000-07:00

Florian is another one of my very favourite jewellery designers. He's just sent me the look book for his new Spring/Summer men's collection and it's safe to say this is a winner. Forget notions of tacky bling for boys, or unfounded fears of looking effeminate – this stuff's unabashedly masculine, albeit with a soft centre.

Horn necklace and bracelet set: polished cow horn, rope and leather cord, rhodium plated brass chain

Horn necklace: natural and polished antler, polished cow horn and rope

Leather cord and chain necklace

Horn pendant necklace with polished cow horn and rope

Rope necklaces

Polished horn pendants with snake chain (left) and leather cord

Vintage Week at Adorn

2010-06-15T09:09:00.000-07:00

Juliet at Adorn has devoted her website to all things vintage this week. Click here to read a little something I wrote for her...

And here's a few pix Juliet didn't use. They are works by Julia Muggenburger of Belmacz - one of my very favourite jewellers working today. Each piece incorporates vintage elements sourced by Julia on her globetrotting adventures.

Roman Still Life
Music Note
Morgenstern
Joie Double
Schlemmer

I had the pleasure of meeting Julia a while back. She gave me a tour of her plush showrooms on Mount Street in Mayfair and told me all sorts of weird and wonderful stories about the pieces she has created over the years. My favourite was about the queen's former dentist who commissioned Julia to make him a ring using a piece of green jade. He eventually lost it in the sea on holiday. Bummer. Julia is eccentric in the very best sense of the word - quirky, wildly creative and very entertaining.

Happy Birthday Bulgari

2010-06-01T10:21:00.000-07:00

When Bulgari first launched their B.zero1 collection in 2000 it comprised a small selection of gold rings with moving central spirals, decorated with diamonds and gems. Since then the now iconic range has expanded to include bracelets, pendants, earrings and wristwatches each of which boast all the key elements of Bulgari style, namely a re-interpretation the Tubogas coil detail, and two lateral rims with the double logo engraved.

To celebrate the B.zero1’s 10th birthday Bulgari recently launched a capsule collection that explores new materials and novel interpretations of the line’s classic staples. Special mention goes to the pink gold and mirrored steel ring designed by artist Anish Kapoor (top image, below).

Jace Wong's A Winner

2010-05-31T14:06:00.000-07:00

Adorn London recently ran a competition in which the prize was a copy of my book. The lucky winner was Jayce Wong who – as it happens – is a pretty hot jeweller herself.

With a Masters Degree in Jewellery Design from Central Saint Martins and heavyweight qualifications from the Gemmological Institute of America, it comes as no surprise to learn that Jayce has a vested interest in the gems she works into her jewellery. Her latest collection, A New Stone Age, explores the fluorescent properties of gems which lead to some very special effects when viewed under UV light. So with festival season upon us there's no better time for disco divas everywhere to ditch the glowstick bangles in favour of a Jayce Wong dancefloor dazzler.

Black rhodium plated 14k white gold rings featuring a variety of pave set gemstones. Can also be worn individually.

Yellow gold-plated silver cocktail ring featuring an oval cut rutilated quartz stone, brown diamonds and blue sapphires.

Jayce’s jewellery is available from Kabiri.

Scott Wilson & bros

2010-05-26T08:14:00.000-07:00

Bibelotphile fave, Scott Wilson, has designed a capsule line of jewellery for men called Scott Wilson & bros. Here's a sneak preview of his U-shape Catch Necklace which is made of cast silver and comes in two different finishes: 22k gold and white rhodium, or all-black rhodium. More as it comes...

Boys In Jewels - Part 2

2010-05-25T09:25:00.000-07:00

Jewellery for boys is IMHO a much underrated accessory. I think these photos of a chap sporting Casely-Hayford's AW2010 fashion collection, A Darker Shade of Black, prove the point. The jewellery is by Tessa Edwards.

Photos by Katinka Herbert, courtesy of Dazed Digital